From the intricate kalamkari paintings painted by the Nayak kings of Madurai using ancient dyeing techniques to the funky therukoothu designs on fabrics, the textile arts on display in the ongoing exhibition bring lost techniques back into the limelight.
One of the works on display uses resist dyeing, an ancient technique used by artists from Tamil Nadu and Andhra Pradesh who use wax to create intricate designs and lines on fabric. The technique is different, with resist dyeing allowing one to experiment with layering and create a masking effect, says Vipin Das, a Chennai-based artist whose work is on display at the ‘Entwined’ exhibition at Apparao Gallery.
“The wax is designed to prevent dye or ink from penetrating into these parts of the fabric. This technique began to fade away in India in the 1910s because it was labor-intensive. It took artists several hours to complete the wax line, and even more hours after that. More time to paint the rest of the piece,” Das said. He spent three years studying ancient textile art, visiting museums and examining textiles from private collections. “I and six other artists successfully created a kalamkari piece depicting a court scene of the Nayak dynasty using the resist dyeing technique.”
Dubai-based architect-turned-designer Vino Supraja has reinvented traditional kalamkari and dyeing techniques, blending old and new artistic techniques in her kalamkari fabrics. “I like to experiment with digital tools like Procreate and Adobe Illustrator. When it comes to block printing, usually the pattern is carved directly on the wood block. But I create the design on digital media and give it to the artist to make the kalamkari prints.
One of her most famous works is “Therukoothu”, for which she drew inspiration from Tamil culture and roots. “I believe that when you use both digital and traditional technologies, the possibilities for unique design are endless. It expanded my creative horizons,” she says.
Dilip, a Chennai-based abstract artist, says certain textile designs or the colors of that design are characteristic of certain lifestyles or cultures. “Thus, textiles are a superior medium as we are able to depict a visual journey and a unique language. In my recent work, I have used longi in collages, which reflect the Tamil identity. Different fabrics, The use of textiles and bags not only adds texture and depth but also reflects themes of sustainability and reimagining everyday objects within my environment.
