Up to now, the current year’s annual Kanwar Yatra has been over shadowed by several controversies. In the Haridwar, they covered the mosques and mazars along the route, imposed a ban on sale of non-vegetarian food and were about to display owners’ names on nameplates of eateries but have since stayed that order by government. It is with this background in mind that the paper focuses on different socio-political aspects surrounding a traditional one hundred years old ‘spiritual pilgrimage.’
Since becoming Chief Minister of Uttar Pradesh in 2017, Yogi Adityanath has increased official participation in the Kanwar yatra. However, it began with showering petals from helicopters onto ‘Kanwariyas’ (people who embark on such trips) and by 2024 measures required restaurants located along the route between Delhi and Haridwar to put up sign boards bearing their proprietors.
It was Government orders that all shop keepers based along Kanwar yatra were supposed to write down names of their owners on their nameplates
On July 18th Muzaffarnagar District Police initially enforced this order followed by modification as voluntary displaying of names of shopkeepers “to prevent confusion among kanwariyas.” But throughout UP (Uttar Pradesh), MP (Madhya Pradesh) and Uttarakhand other districts also issued similar orders. There was an outcry against them from members public as well as opposition parties.
The Supreme Court stayed these orders following various petitions challenging their legality filed before it against some states like Uttar Pradesh and Uttarakhand; actually that stay was extended until August 5. For most parts within UP Shravan ends on August 19 with entire yatra taking place between July 22 – August 19 (some regions may observe different dates).
We will be looking at what is Kanwar yatra, its growing popularity over time and recent controversies.
What is the Significance of Kanwar Yatra?
According to Hindu mythology, when the ocean was churned by Devas and Asuras, Lord Shiva drank Halahala (the poison) and his throat turned blue. The devas and asuras poured Ganga water on him to cool his burning throat. To celebrate this event, Lord Parashuram – the sixth Avatar (manifestation) of Lord Vishnu, is believed to have undertaken the first Kanwar yatra, carrying Ganga water in containers suspended on either side of a pole to the Bholenath temple in Haridwar.
For over a century now, every Shravan month (mid-July to August), Shiva devotees all over India have been going on pilgrimage to collect sacred Ganga waters from Haridwar or Gangotri/Gaumukh in Uttarakhand and return home offering the same to local Shiva temples or major temples generally. Some most popular routes taken by Kanwariyas include: Haridwar-Mahadev temple in Rishikesh or Pura Mahadeva Temple in Baghpat; Gangotri-Kashi Vishwanath temple in Varanasi or Baidyanath temple Deogarh; Sultanganj-Baidyanath temple.
Who goes for Kanwar Yatra?
Initially only religious and spiritual leaders also known as kanwariyas undertook this journey walking barefoot up north wherever they could find Ganges’ water. While “kanwars” were being carried along main highways with saffron-clad old men chanting ‘Bum Bole’, glorifying lord Shiv were seen walking through Moradabad, Roorkee, Ayodhya, Gorakhpur, Allahabd (Prayagraj), Varanasi and Haridwar cities on foot.
On Friday, July 7, 2023, in New Delhi, Lord Shiva devotees or ‘Kanwariyas’ brought holy water from the Ganga river during their pilgrimage in the month of ‘Shravan.’
According to tradition, it is forbidden for pitchers tied on a kanwar to touch the ground. For travelers who need to numb themselves from the pain of long trips and sometimes for fun, liberal use of marijuana is acceptable. Presently, youth between ages fifteen and thirty-five years are most common in Kanwariya communities. On account of lack of sanitation facilities and security issues on roadsides, women comprise an insignificantly small percentage of these pilgrims.
How has the kanwar yatra tranformed?
1990-2014: Rising Hindutva
The Kanwar yatra dates back to pre-independence era and has been a long-cherished ritual by devout Hindus. Hindu outfits Vishwa Hindu Parishad (VHP) and Rashtriya Swayamsevak Sangh (RSS) deny any direct involvement in the kanwar yatra. However, as two organizations spearheaded by Ram Janmabhoomi movement journey itself became more popular later in 1980s. At first, those embarking on kanwariyas belonged to districts near Ganga or an important shiva shrine but with time young people aged between 15-45 began coming from places like Delhi Rajasthan Madhya Pradesh with bottles filled with water collected at Ganga.
‘Kanwariyas‘ (Lord Shiva devotees) during ‘Kawad Yatra’ in the holy month of ‘Shravan’, near Charminar, in Hyderabad, Sunday, on August 4th 2024.
After demolition of Babri Mosque there were massive attacks against Muslims which escalated amid ever growing popularity of kanwar yatras. The number of incidents involving kanwariyas vandalizing public places, harassing women and foreigners increased. In order to ensure that there are rest places, food, water and toilet facilities for the kanwariyas; Kanwar sewa sanghs emerged along the route.
2014-17: Rise of Hindu nationalism
The popularity of the Kanwar yatra further ballooned after the election of Prime Minister Narendra Modi in 2014. During 2015, lakhs of kanwariyas could be seen on both sides of Ganga river – saffron-clad young men holding orange flags sitting on bikes or in groups with disc jockeys (DJs) having fun with music played.
‘Kanwariyas’ (Lord Shiva devotees) during ‘Kanwar Yatra’ in the holy month of ‘Shravan’, in New Delhi, on Thursday, Aug. 1st 2024.
In a research paper titled ‘The Rural-Urban Intersection of Sacred Beliefs and Secular Praxis in India’, author Rachna Mehra argues that the yatra has gained popularity among impoverished working-class youth to overcome existential crisis like unemployment, inflation, money troubles, and health issues. Since late 2010s she observed an increase in clashes between local police and kanwars as pilgrims began gathering greater numbers around temples.
From 2017: Increase in polarisation during the Yogi era
The BJP after winning 2017 Uttar Pradesh State election, appointed a Gorakhnath temple’s monk, Yogi Adityanath as its Chief ministerial pick. On his taking over the reins of power, Yogi Adityanath allowed DJs to play again but ordered that for kanwar yatras only bhajans and film songs that were not obscene and provocative should be played. As it was believed to be “inauspicious” by the devotees, he also directed the removal of fig trees along the yatra route.
A helicopter showers flower petals on Kanwariyas who came to Har Ki Pauri Ghat to collect holy water from the Ganga river during ‘Kanwar Yatra’ in the holy month of Shravan, in Haridwar, on Tuesday, July 30, 2024.
In 2018 year, BJP government even used choppers to shower flowers on kanwariyas and publicized this yatra via media. To avoid hurting their sentiments eateries along routes banned serving non-vegetarian food for one month during which this yatra took place. Further orders were given to police officials ensuring that travelers are accompanied with security from their entrance into town and throughout until they leave.
The segregation of a separate pathway for travelers following this national highway route has caused traffic jams along a stretch spanning about 200 kilometers long even as main roads have been congested more through such facilities as rest stops areas with overnight provisions. This preference by DJs playing disco lights with loud music has resulted in noise complaints from shopkeepers and residents alike among other issues for entertainment purposes during these events attended by thousands of people called kanwariyas.
A car is vandalised after a violent clash erupted between two groups of Kanwariyas (Shiva devotees) over the issue of performing ‘Jalabhishek’, in Gurugram’s Sector 12 on Friday. Six persons were injured in the clash.
There has been an increasing number of reports about vandalism. Since 2018, every year there have been instances of Kanwariyas torching vehicles that are believed to have touched the kanwars making them impure. Most shops namely those run by Muslims were destroyed by these devotees who thought they served non-vegetarian meals. The Supreme Court in 2018 ordered any State government to act strictly against such acts of destruction by kanwariyas so as to curb rampant vandalism. Nevertheless, this continues happening up to now.
In 2019, “Mr. Adityanath made kanwar yatra a poll plank for the Lok Sabha campaign. In his reported words Muzaffarnagar spent many months under curfew because your votes went into wrong hands, but today it is known for Kanwar Yatra.”
Post-polls, preparation and security arrangements for the Kanwar Yatra became more detailed — schools in the areas where heavy inflow of kanwariyas were expected were shut and areas cordoned off. Official records indicate that nearly 3.5 crore kanwariyas traveled to Haridwar while over two-three crore visited pilgrimage places across Western UP during 2019.
By COVID-19 much congregations were prohibited at most places but Yogi Adityanath insisted that July 25 be its beginning date in 2021. In contrast Uttarakhand CM Pushkar Dhami banned this yatra before he later repealed his order too.
‘Kanwariyas’ or Lord Shiva devotees gather at Har ki Pauri to collect holy water of the Ganga river during ‘Kanwar Yatra’ in the holy month of ‘Shravan’ on the occasion of ‘Sawan Shivratri’, in Haridwar, July 15, 2023.
“Certainly in Western UP where Muslims are dominant, our government has permitted empowered Hindus to hold big religious events,” said former BJP MLA Surendra Nath Singh in an interview, “Modi ji and Yogi ji have turned India to Hindutva.”
Kartik Kumar Baliyan, an Indian Army jawan was killed during a clash between two groups of kanwariyas at Manglaur in Uttarakhand in 2022. Mr Baliyan who was on leave, himself went to Haridwar as a kanwariya. The jawan was lynched after his group’s Kanwar reportedly overtook Haryana’s Kanwariyas at Roorkee.
Violence broke out between two factions of ‘Kanwariya’ (Shiva Devotees) over the issue of doing JAL ABHISHEK resulting into vandalizing of a car at Gurgaon Sector 12 on Friday. Six persons were injured in the scuffle.
This year, on July 22, kanwariyas vandalised a car and thrashed its occupants in Muzaffarnagar saying that it brushed against them on the Haridwar-Delhi national highway. A day later, kanwariyas assaulted staff at a petrol pump in the same district after one of the travellers was allegedly stopped from smoking a cigarette. This is not unrelated to Muzaffarnagar police asking eatery owners to voluntarily display names of their owners on nameplates.
The Yogi Adityanath government had defended the controversial order issued by them before it reached the Supreme Court on grounds that it was meant to ensure transparency and informed choice regarding what consumers/kanwarias eat during this period for yatra keeping their religious sentiments so that they do not fall foul even accidentally with anything against their beliefs. It added that indicating nameplate for owners corresponded with Central law. Subsequently, the Supreme Court stayed the orders observing that such directives must be implemented across board and not only in particular areas.
With by-elections round the corner in Uttar Pradesh, the kanwar yatra is likely to remain a divisive issue as well as election plank.